Apologies for the time away from posting. It must have been very hard on both of you. But you must certainly be able to understand our brief absence. For a week we have splashed in the sun warmed saline sea off the island of Ponza, a tiny rock of an island a little over an hour’s hydrofoil ride from Anzio. There’s not much to tell about our visit here. Just a little swimming, a little breathing in the clean, cool salt air, a little seafood here and there and a little chilled white wine. Just normal stuff.
See what I mean . . .
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During our visit to Sicily, we watched the Italian national soccer team beat the Germans 2-1 in the Euro Cup semi finals. The big win gave the national team and its fans hope that they could beat the strong Spanish team in the finals, which took place during our Ponza visit. Wanting to watch the game and to witness firsthand the locals cheering their team on to victory – they are absolutely insane about soccer here – we scored a coveted table at a wharf side restaurant with a big screen TV and tucked ourselves in for the evening while enjoying a great seafood dinner. Meanwhile back at the hotel, the management set up an outdoor viewing area for guests to watch the big match. It’s hard to imagine any event, including the Superbowl, that is taken as seriously as an international soccer match final here in Italy.
Unfortunately, the Italians never challenged Spain. As good as the game against Germany was, and it was one of Italy’s best, the finals against Spain was as bad. Italy never got started, all the action was around the Italian goal and Italy’s fabulous goalkeeper – Buffon – had an off night. It was a real disappointment, not even getting to see a flash of excitement among the Italian fans. At least the seafood was great!
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Boating is the activity du jour pretty much every jour here on Ponza. One favorite is to rent a boat, with or without captain and putt around the perimeter of the island. You can explore little uncrowded coves and anchor for a while, swimming in the cool, clear water. You’ll find boats anchored everywhere in all shapes, sizes and colors, with couples or groups sprawled inside enjoying the sun and maybe reading a book.
A trip to nearby Palmarola, an uninhabited island just across the water, is a real treat. There is one restaurant and numerous coves in which to swim. It is pristine and, as our captain Luigi told us, “one of the seven wonders of the world.”
He wasn’t lying. Palmarola is a veritable gem.
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Another favorite activity is to stop at the restaurant La Marina in Cala Feola during our circumnavigation. You pull the boat up the the rocks and tie up and the restaurant, an open air shack a few yards from the water is your home for the next several hours. We have gone each time we have visited the past several years, and the owner has gotten to recognize us. He knows we will order the spaghetti with lobster, which, while itcosts an arm and a leg, is worth it, especially if you take time to eat the leg and the claw. It is succulent, sweet and, unless you actually eat it, you can’t really appreciate that it tastes . . . fresh. The pasta ain’t bad either.
After (and before) lunch, a little swim on the public beach, full of families, is required.
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Da Igino (Igino’s restaurant) is another favorite. It’s perched up on the cliff above the beach we call the River Styx, because you have to pay €1 to get them to take you from the dock to the rocks on a little boat. It’s possible to wade across, but it’s considered bad form.
Regardless of how you get to the beach (Cala Fonte), don’t miss eating at da Igino. It features some of the freshest and simplest seafood on the island. Add a little wine and a great view from the rocks. What could be better?
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And finally, we found an excellent new restaurant (new to us, at least). Il Core. A little place surrounded by lush, beautiful gardens, the open air restaurant had a great breeze and, once again, great seafood. We’ll pick up here next year, where we left off.
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Ci vediamo!
Bill and Suzy
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