Our return to Umbria was a day of new beginnings and new adventures.
A new tour group of eight soon-to-be ambassadors of Umbria
A first visit to Testone, a new restaurant featuring an all-torta al testo menu
A visit to and tour of Assisi the day before the Peace March from Perugia
Dinner at the villa prepared by Maria Pia
Stepping off the early morning flight from Paris to Rome made one thing abundantly clear. While autumn has arrived in France, in Italy it is still summer. Hot temperatures and clear blue dry skies greeted us on our return and the long sleeves we donned in Paris seemed most unnecessary.
On our drive from Rome we caught up with Wendy and planned the upcoming week and the following week’s tour, our conversation joyously covering all of the adventures that awaited our guests during their journey of discovery. We can’t wait!
We arrived at Testone, a modern Umbrian version of fast food restaurant tucked in a corner shopping center on the edge of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Testone is less fast food than it is singular food, each traditional torta al testo, the typical Umbrian flatbread baked over fire on a circular testo hand made and filled with freshly grilled sausages, sliced meats, local cheeses and various greens. It is simple food that is simply delicious and the enthusiastic young staff of waiters and managers provide a magnetic atmosphere that in short is fun. This was our first visit but won’t be our last.
A two hour walking tour of Assisi acclimated our guests to the lore and lure of the town’s native son, St. Francis. The usually busy city was positively bursting with humanity, adding to the festive atmosphere on this unusually balmy fall day.
But the highlight of the day, as it most always is, was the welcome dinner at the farmhouse prepared by the ever popular Maria Pia. Looking back through my photo archives I noticed it is difficult to find many pictures of Maria Pia and last night showed why. A veritable whirlwind of activity, when MP makes and serves dinner she is never the spotlight, her food is. She charges out with a bowl of pasta bigger than her head, serves it around and disappears back into the kitchen to finish up the next dish, which this night was the rarest of birds, roast chicken that unlike its American counterpart, has flavor to savor.
Aside from welcoming our guests for the beginning of their adventure the evening had an even more special purpose, wishing our dear friends Arlene and Arthur Cohen congratulations on their fiftieth wedding anniversary. Over the years we have made countless friends introduced to us through Via Umbria (and its predecessor Bella Italia) and in many cases those acquaintances have blossomed into true friendships. Such is the case with Arlene and Arthur and so with the assistance of Maria Pia and her signature meringata cake, festooned with Roman candles, we celebrated our friends’ milestone. Looking up from behind dessert Arthur exclaimed to the assembled friends, old and new, “I can’t think of a place I’d rather be to celebrate.”
We agree, Arthur. We agree.
Tanti auguri e cohen-gratulazioni.
Ci vediamo!
Bill and Suzy
After six years in Umbria, our roots there are deep. After two short visits to Ischia, our roots were non-existent. So when we decided to organize and take a tour group to Ischia for a week long sailing school we needed help. The sailing end of things would be well covered, for we knew we were in good hands with Capitano Andrea. For the land portion of the trip we needed a good partner. As fate would have it we found Dion. Score one for Experience Umbria in Ischia. 
Tucked away in a tiny elbow of San Montano Bay, the Negombo Thermal Spa is one of several dozen volcanic thermal baths that dot the enchanting island of Ischia. On our second visit there, this time together with a small group of our Ischia Sailing School participants, we luxuriated in warm, hot, scalding and freezing pools, the dozen or so whimsical watering holes scattered across this unique park with its naturalistic, fantasy-like setting. Our group came to sail, but their morning at Negombo was one that they will never forget. 
A string walks into a bar, climbs up on a barstool and orders a beer. The bartender, a bit perplexed looks at him and says, “you’re a string. Get out of here. We don’t serve strings in here.”
OK, here’s what I think. At least a few readers/followers have been thinking to themselves, “so Bill and Suzy have been having an interesting time in the Gulf of Naples. They’ve visited some fascinating islands (Capri and Ischia), eaten a bunch of great food, drank even more great wine, swam, shopped, and enjoyed themselves. But I thought they were going to Ischia to sail. What gives?”
Ischia. How many people have even heard the name? And how many have visited? Its next door neighbor Capri has captured the imagination of the international jet set. They and their wannabe hangers on jam Capri port, fill its restaurants and make the island a daytripper’s paradise. But Ischia? Poor and undiscovered (or underdiscovered) Ischia is not poor at all. It is the real deal. 
It’s always so hard to say goodbye. To let go. It is even harder when you are saying goodbye to Capri. 
After four days in Capri we arrive in Ischia, Capri’s larger but less well known neighbor. There’s plenty of ferry traffic from Capri to Ischia but we have to search a bit to find ferries going the other way. It’s worth it though. We arrive on Ischia Saturday afternoon for a return visit to the Mezzatorre hotel, the luxe hotel we discovered last year and which will be our home for the next week as we begin our week long scuola di vela sailing school on island. 
“You are people that want to learn about other cultures, that enjoy meeting people and getting to know about them and where they come from, who are curious to see more than what you can see from a tour bus.”
The term “island life” conjures up some pretty powerful images in most peoples’ minds. Visions of bronze skin – radiant skin, really – not so much as a result of the constant absorption of UV rays from the everpresent sun, but an inner radiance that comes from a contentment and happiness of being one of the chosen few privileged enough to reside apart from the world, in one’s own private paradise. 
Campania, the Italian region south of Rome that calls Naples its capital, is rightly known for its sunsplashed coastline, fun loving inhabitants and great food and wine. On our first full day here we can vouch for all of the above.