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Vinopalooza Photo Diary

Things we love: geese working in the fields and then becoming dinner, biodynamic farming, glimpsing the sun. Our day at the Plani Arche Winery.

 

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Plani Arche Read more

Things we love: geese working in the fields and then becoming dinner, biodynamic farming, glimpsing the sun. Our day at the Plani ...

Vinopalooza Photo Diary – Day III

We continue our adventures in the Umbria countryside at the house of Pardi Linen. An explanatory tour with the always lovely Augusta Pardi was followed by a perfect, classic Umbrian lunch.

 

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Our adventures in Umbria countryside continues Read more

We continue our adventures in the Umbria countryside at the house of Pardi Linen. An explanatory tour with the always lovely Augusta ...

Photo Diary

Things we love right now:

Cloudy Montefalco spring days that break way to sun, small cantinas, DiFilippo wine, being treated like a local.

The week is just beginning. Vinopalooza 2015 is gonna be good.

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Vinopalooza Day One Read more

Things we love right now: Cloudy Montefalco spring days that break way to sun, small cantinas, DiFilippo wine, being treated like a local. The ...

Easter Presence

Famiglia 011One of the things we have found so appealing about Italy and the Italians throughout the years is their ability to slow down and enjoy the life that is right before their eyes, noses, ears, tongues and fingers. Often summed up in the phrase la dolce vita, we have built our business and our lives around spreading the gospel of slow. And we even sum it up in Via Umbria’s tagline – Discover | Savor | Share.

Italians don’t just pay lip service to savoring life, they simply cannot ignore this genetic predisposition, ingrained as it is in their DNA. More than once when involved in business negotiations or getting to know a new supplier we would break for lunch and rather than continuing the negotiations over the meal all talk of business would be banished until the last grappa was consumed. Usually three or four hours later

But despite being ambassadors for this way of life, we have always had a difficult time walking the walk. Anyone who has travelled on one of our tours and who has gotten to take a peek behind the curtain knows that in organizing these apparently carefree experiences, the reality is anything but. It’s not just that the candle is burnt on both ends, the leftover wax is literally doused in lighter fluid and until the table itself is set aflame and the house afire.

And so as we returned to Italy last week, the first five days to be shared with both our daughter and one of our sons, we resolved to be truly Italian. To slow down and put aside all thoughts of work or business, anything that would distract from enjoying the here and now of being with our family. And despite not just a mountain, but a whole range of Everests that demanded our attention – more than you, dear reader will ever know – we did a pretty good job of staying focused on the things that matter. Family. Friends. Connections.

And what a memorable and meaningful five days it was.

  • ♦  Arrival lunch at Trattoria da Oscar in Bevagna, our first visit but definitely not our last.
  • ♦  First night’s dinner at Perbacco, a homecoming every time we see Ernesto and Simona.

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  • ♦  Our first visit to the winery at Villa Sobrano near Todi, learning about how the sandy soil in that part of Umbria imparts a mineral characteristic to their Grechetto and then getting to taste the proof over a simple but delicious lunch with the owners.

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  • ♦  A sunset visit to Diego’s farm, Calcabrina, where a local Franciscan monk was offering his Easter blessings (in exchange for a sack full of Diego’s caprino cheeses), washing down the milky freshness with some light rose and some fresh sagrantino.

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  • ♦  A home cooked dinner at the farmhouse with Simone, where we welcomed in the spring with a bistecca and a menu of fresh artichokes prepared four ways (grilled, steamed, fried and raw in salad).

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  • ♦  An Eastertime visit to the artisanal chocolate producer Ellegi, where they are lovingly working overtime to create chocolate Easter eggs filled with surprises.

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  • ♦  Lunch and a winery visit at Terre Margaritelli, where our friend Federico defied the odds and shook of the pressure of being told he gives the best winery tour in all of Italy by delivering the best winery tour in all of Italy while his wife Jennifer prepared the best porchetta in all of Umbria.
  • ♦  Dinner at casa Simone e Desiderio with our new best friends Roberto and Elena DiFilippo (and their daughter Bianca Maria).
  • ♦  A leisurely lunch of “leftovers” at home by the pool, under cool spring skies.

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  • ♦  A visit to Birra Perugia, where the owners not only kept the doors open for us an hour and a half after closing, but shared stories and glasses of each of their beers with us.
  • ♦  Carlo Magno pizza eaten fireside at home, followed by a late night movie viewing in the upstairs sitting room.

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  • ♦  A day trip to Florence featuring lunch at the Birreria Centrale, our original haunt on our first trip to Italy, and an enormous dinner of bistecca and Brunello at Francesco Vini, capped off by a tour of the restaurant’s cellar, built into the original Roman amphitheater that occupied the spot nearly two thousand years ago.

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  • ♦  An early morning send off of our youngest son as he embarked on what would turn out to be a 24 hour journey back to the west coast and college as we pulled up stakes and headed to Verona with our daughter for VinItaly.

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Five short days with family. But when you slow down and savor each moment as we did this week, it seems like a blessed eternity. The Italians definitely have gotten something dead on right.

Ci vediamo!
Bill and Suzy

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Italian Way to Enjoy Family Time Read more

One of the things we have found so appealing about Italy and the Italians throughout the years is their ability to slow ...

Our Amazing Artisans – Studio Alice le Maschere

Welcome to a new section on La Dolce Vita, “Our Amazing Artisans,” which features those who create and craft the special objects in our store. 

Today is the fantastic day of Carnevale. Here in DC, many people had an extra reason to celebrate, as the extended weekend of President’s Day got an extra boost with some help from a winter storm. So whether you’re feasting on an extra day of brunch, curled up with a cup of (spiked) hot cocoa or taking part in a giant Snowball Fight, this day is your last chance to get all those “unholy” tendencies out before Lent. Bill and Suzy got a taste of a wild Carnevale two years ago, but for today we all remain here in Georgetown, dreaming of attending a lavish Venetian ball.

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One of our favorite Italian Carnevale traditions is the wearing of masksBut even through this day only comes once a year, we can’t stand to put our beautiful masks away, which is why we hang them on our walls all year round.

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Our masks are sourced from the studio Alice le Maschere, where they are dreamed up and executed in a small town close to Florence. Two years ago, the Menards were led to the studio, and seduced by the exquisite creations.Today, we carry the most eclectic selection in our store, where we have lovingly modeled them for your Carnevale enjoyment.Take a peek at Bill’s post to discover why this studio is so very dear to us.

So go nuts on this Tuesday and have a fantastic Carnevale!

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— Via Umbria

Welcome to a new section on La Dolce Vita, “Our Amazing Artisans,” which features those who create and craft the special objects ...

Simone’s Orecchiette with Broccoli

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Chef Simone has done it again! His tasty Orecchiette with Broccoli recipe was a big hit at Via Umbria this past Wednesday.

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Curious customers of all ages were able to watch the cooking process and enjoy the delicious end result!

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In case you missed out, here is the recipe so that you can try it at home!

Orecchiette with Broccoli

Ingredients:

  • 2 cups of broccoli
  • Anchovies filet
  • 2-4 cloves of Garlic
  • Chili pepper
  • ¼ cup of olive 0il
  • Salt

 

Instructions:

  • Boil broccoli in salt water for 3 minutes
  • Sauté garlic, chili pepper, and anchovies filet in olive oil
  • Add broccoli and cook for 10 minutes
  • Using water, boil orecchiette for 10 minutes
  • Drain and serve with a sprinkle of parmigiano

 Buon appetito!

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— Via Umbria

Chef Simone has done it again! His tasty Orecchiette with Broccoli recipe was a big hit at Via Umbria this past Wednesday. Curious ...

Sunday Finest

Day 11 018Sunday, our group’s first full day in Umbria, lived up to its being a Sunday. For Sunday’s are a special day in Umbria as they are throughout Italy.

What’s so special about Sundays? Or at least what was so special about our Sunday?

Day 11 001It wasn’t simply the visit to the Luchetti family farm, a place of peace and serenity where nature takes center stage. Where chianina cows are raised and cinta Sienese pigs are fattened. A place where a 25 year old toils with the patience of a senior twice his age, cleaning and salting fat legs of pigs for their yearlong journey of becoming prosciutto.

It wasn’t simply the opportunity to share the day with another food and wine tour group from the other Washington (this one Bellingham), with our friend Jennifer McIlvaine acting as the glue that connected our group and hers. Although it was special to watch our guests bond immediately with their counterparts. Food and Italy have have a way of forging those bonds.

Day 11 004It wasn’t simply the blue skies and unusually hot “fall” weather.

It wasn’t simply the visit to Alma and Dino’s tidy farm, just around the corner from our farmhouse, just another patch of farmland that makes up a single quilt square on the countryside that is one enormous quilt of farms. But what a patch the calloused couple has created. Fields of lettuces, fennel, asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower laid out in neat, tidy, fertile, bountiful rows, each one bursting with life. Truly bursting with life. Here you feel that farming is not so much work as it is a gift. To be the keeper, the custodian of these fields is hard work, no doubt, but in the joyous faces of Alma and Dino you can read that it a labor of love and contentment.

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Day 11 019It wasn’t simply the meal, an hours long Sunday kind of leisurely feast set around a table twenty feet long and shaded with the retractable umbrella built into the couple’s mobile farmstand truck. A feast prepared by Jennifer and her former boss and everyone’s friend Salvatore Denaro. Salvatore, the notorious, noteworthy, noted chef, gardener, media personality. Salvatore, an imp and an impresario. Each dish passed around with a smile and a twinkle, each glass filled with a rousing chorus of “Vino, Vino, Vino.” Each occupant at the table feeling as though he or she was the special guest of honor.

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Day 11 015It wasn’t simply having Jennifer and her husband Federico and their two adorable children steal the show and our hearts. Federico coaxing the infant Gabrielle to ham it up with the three liter wine bottle from Federico’s winery while his protective sister Olivia watched over the scene to keep him from any harm or too much embarrassment.

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It wasn’t anything in particular that made this or any Sunday in Umbria special. It was all of it. For on Sundays in Italy it is not just family and friends that take center stage. It is life and love that is invited in, not just for a quick visit, but for a long, lingering sojourn.

I fear that by inviting ourselves into their world we may some day change and diminish – tarnish – that which is truly special in Umbria. Things like Sundays. My hope is that Umbria changes us first. Let’s hope that sometime in the near future, back in Washington, DC or Bellingham, Washington on a Sunday afternoon, while enjoying lunch al fresco with your family you, too, may hear drifting on the winds the refrain “Vino, Vino, Vino.”

Ci vediamo!
Bill and Suzy

Every Sunday is a special one here Read more

Sunday, our group’s first full day in Umbria, lived up to its being a Sunday. For Sunday’s are a special day in ...

A Work of Art (and Arlene)

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Our return to Umbria was a day of new beginnings and new adventures.

A new tour group of eight soon-to-be ambassadors of Umbria
A first visit to Testone, a new restaurant featuring an all-torta al testo menu
A visit to and tour of Assisi the day before the Peace March from Perugia
Dinner at the villa prepared by Maria Pia

Stepping off the early morning flight from Paris to Rome made one thing abundantly clear. While autumn has arrived in France, in Italy it is still summer. Hot temperatures and clear blue dry skies greeted us on our return and the long sleeves we donned in Paris seemed most unnecessary.

On our drive from Rome we caught up with Wendy and planned the upcoming week and the following week’s tour, our conversation joyously covering all of the adventures that awaited our guests during their journey of discovery. We can’t wait!

Day 10 001We arrived at Testone, a modern Umbrian version of fast food restaurant tucked in a corner shopping center on the edge of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Testone is less fast food than it is singular food, each traditional torta al testo, the typical Umbrian flatbread baked over fire on a circular testo hand made and filled with freshly grilled sausages, sliced meats, local cheeses and various greens. It is simple food that is simply delicious and the enthusiastic young staff of waiters and managers provide a magnetic atmosphere that in short is fun. This was our first visit but won’t be our last.

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Day 10 003A two hour walking tour of Assisi acclimated our guests to the lore and lure of the town’s native son, St. Francis. The usually busy city was positively bursting with humanity, adding to the festive atmosphere on this unusually balmy fall day.

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Day 10 006But the highlight of the day, as it most always is, was the welcome dinner at the farmhouse prepared by the ever popular Maria Pia. Looking back through my photo archives I noticed it is difficult to find many pictures of Maria Pia and last night showed why. A veritable whirlwind of activity, when MP makes and serves dinner she is never the spotlight, her food is. She charges out with a bowl of pasta bigger than her head, serves it around and disappears back into the kitchen to finish up the next dish, which this night was the rarest of birds, roast chicken that unlike its American counterpart, has flavor to savor.

Aside from welcoming our guests for the beginning of their adventure the evening had an even more special purpose, wishing our dear friends Arlene and Arthur Cohen congratulations on their fiftieth wedding anniversary. Over the years we have made countless friends introduced to us through Via Umbria (and its predecessor Bella Italia) and in many cases those acquaintances have blossomed into true friendships. Such is the case with Arlene and Arthur and so with the assistance of Maria Pia and her signature meringata cake, festooned with Roman candles, we celebrated our friends’ milestone. Looking up from behind dessert Arthur exclaimed to the assembled friends, old and new, “I can’t think of a place I’d rather be to celebrate.”

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We agree, Arthur. We agree.

Tanti auguri e cohen-gratulazioni.

Ci vediamo!
Bill and Suzy

  Our return to Umbria was a day of new beginnings and new adventures. A new tour group of eight soon-to-be ambassadors of Umbria A ...

Quite an Eye Full

On the shoulders of giants

 

We returned to Italy today after a brief soggiorno in France. As you no doubt know if you have been keeping up with our posts. [Note, there will be a test at the end of the month.] Continue reading Quite an Eye Full

  We returned to Italy today after a brief soggiorno in France. As you no doubt know if you have been keeping up ...

One Small Step for Man

Bill and Suzy's Excellent Adventures 009When seven o’clock rolls around in the morning it doesn’t matter if I am in bed at home in Washington, DC, or waking up to a cool sea breeze while the not so distant sound of waves lapping up on a white sandy beach soothes, or rubbing the sleep from my eyes as the sun rises over majestic towering mountains. And it doesn’t matter that the air is filled with the gentle clanging of church bells or the high pitched chirping of songbirds that mark the coming to life here in Umbria. The fact remain that I do not like to get up in the morning and dread even more the thought of taking a morning stroll. Continue reading One Small Step for Man

When seven o’clock rolls around in the morning it doesn’t matter if I am in bed at home in Washington, DC, or ...